Tips on Poinciana Tree Care

Ok, it’s now time to take a look at our many Poinciana trees around our suburbs.
Some have decided to flower sooner while others will wait a few more weeks.
You will notice the depth of the red will vary to different degrees, from deep red all the way down to a very flat orange. The depth of colour generally represents the way the tree is living, how well the roots are working, how well the tree is collecting the available nutrients and how well the tree distributes the nutrients around. Our trees also have the ability to chose when and how much they use of there stored energy. His adds to the confusion of the varying shades from the flowers.
Another confusing thing is that there are alway two reasons why are POINCIANNA produces a certain shade of colour and they are always opposite.
Now you are really confused!

Now let’s talk about a Poinciana tree that has just flourished in bright deep red flowers, This shade of red can mean two things: The tree is really happy and has decided to share its happiness by putting on a bright spectacle or stressed out and wastes it energy on producing erratic growth around the tree in an attempt to strengthen itself.

Either way, these two cases generally mean there has probably been a change to the area, nutrients added, difference in soil temperature or moisture, new grass been laid, it has had a good lightning storm, the roots have found a water source, etc. (the list can go on and on)

A light orange colour, on the other hand, can mean the tree is lacking in something and can’t do much or has a more stable controlled release of reserves and has chosen to keep the supply of here reserves constant over the seasons.

So now you see that the different shades of red could be good or bad.
If you are unsure then get it checked. In the mean time, enjoy the colours!

Maintenance

Our Poinciana trees don’t have much of a defence against our borers or fungus, so please, look after these trees. Pro-active management is the key to your tree’s longevity.

Tips for a great Poinciana Tree
– Keep nutrients up to the tree.
– Control moisture and temperature of the soil with mulch, thick application not thin.
– If you see rot, then get it cut out and seal the cut!
– Check forks in the tree, are any holding water? If so, then you need to drain it. That means drill a hole, the position of the hole needs to be correct so not to damage the tree.
– If any elks, stags, orchids are growing in forks then remove them.
– Deadwood your tree and remove excess branches that are not needed.

These are just a few tips to help your tree look and be its best. If you are not sure of what needs to be done then give an Arborist a call.

Poinciana Tree Care

Poinciana Tree Care Tips

Jacaranda Tree Care – Lighting up our Urban Forests

Jacarandas, (Jacaranda mimosifolia), are a spectacular sight right about now. They flood the areas they are in with a fantastic purple colour. The Jacaranda comes from from Brazil which is another place that flourishes in colours.

Pruning a Jacaranda
All trees need some form of maintenance at some point. When
it comes to a Jacaranda then you need to focus on the whole structure of the tree carefully before you get some work done on it. You need to prune these trees correctly or you will get an excess of new multiple vertical shoots that are both weaker and outgrow the original shape of your tree.
More growth means more maintenance to keep it under control.

Because the Jacaranda is a grand canopy tree, if it is incorrectly pruned it is often very hard, or in severe cases impossible, to get it back to an original shape.

Jacarandas are large trees , if you don’t have one in the yard but want one then beware that when starting from a small tree they will grow slowly, if you really love them then you need to start with a mature Jacaranda tree to be planted in your yard.

For those people who hate the carpet of flowers, sorry but I like the trees.

Jacarandas, (Jacaranda mimosifolia)

Jacarandas Tree Care

Cycad Care – Tree Caring Tips

Check your cycads out now before it’s too late! You don’t want to see your new fronds half eaten and looking lousy for another 12 months do you?

Our most common cycad is the Sago Palm. Yep, another well named plant that is only designed to confuse us. The Cycas revoluta is not a palm, it is simply a cycad which you could say it is more closely related to conifers than palms. They are a non flowering plant that produce canes and seeds.

The problem we have in Brisbane is that when the cycads form a flush of new leaves and they are out all at once. If we miss this occasion it is more often than not the blue butterfly (Theclinesthes onycha) WILL NOT. This butterfly lays its eggs on the flush of new growth and it’s caterpillars do the damage and ruin our cycads for another 12 months.

These caterpillars can be controlled with pyrethrum.

Remember trimming the older leaves will expose a beautiful trunk that needs to be shown off not hidden by neglect. It does not harm the cycad.

Transplanting
Transplanting cycads is relatively easy. When digging, the root to make sure not to accidentally damage is the main carrot shape root. Other smaller roots can be cut if there is no other choice. If this carrot root is damaged you need to dry it out, wait for the wound to cure, apply hormone treatment, water little and hope for the best.

After you have transplanted your cycad, don’t love it too much. Leave it a week before you water it. Let it settle and strengthen first. REMEMBER there is a good chance you have damaged the soft smaller roots. It is always best to let these heal before you water them. Remember the water we use is not sterile so watering it excessively with the cycad having open wounds is like pouring dirty water on a cut you have.

Your Cycad Tree caring Tips

Cycad Tree

What is the difference between an invasive and non-invasive tree?

What is the difference between an invasive and non-invasive tree?

Simple answer, not much at all!

Being a responsible person that you are, you want to make the right decision when you are selecting a new tree to plant next to your pool, or house, or even fences and pathways.
You carry out some research on the tree that you like and it states that your tree is non-evasive, great that’s perfect for what you want, right?
Unfortunately there is no black and white with trees being invasive or non-invasive.
Only grey, not quite 50 shades of grey but very close!

Given certain conditions all trees will become invasive.

You need to remember that your tree is more clever than you think.
They are better than us at finding water and they will dedicate everything to finding it!

What you might not realise is, that every property that has underground services has unknowingly supplied our trees in the area with an easy avenue to travel to collect moisture. Think about it. If you have power cables or plumbing underground what must you put in the trench…….if I lost you then here it is, we apply a media (gravel/sand etc), this allows flex in the ground which protects the pipes and cables. This also allows free flow of any water on the property to run into these trenches, so what do you think a clever tree is going to do? That’s right, you got it, so now your non-invasive tree has just become invasive via an easy route.

So what do you do?

The only thing I can think of is, we need to live in the trees, problem solved!

Ok, that is ridiculous, but I laughed.

Maybe in short, the best way to describe the difference between an invasive tree and an non-invasive tree is that a non-invasive tree is less likely to break a good pipe but will break a leaky pipe where-as, an invasive tree is more likely to break a good pipe and guaranteed to break a leaky pipe, all in an attempt to find more moisture.

Remember tree roots damaging things happens every day and is one of the top problems for homeowners, often with devastating results.
All tree roots seek out moisture and over time large roots will tangle and breakdown pipes and undermine structures..

Now, if you do have a pipe that a tree has found then eventually a complete blockage will occur if nothing is done. Homeowners will often try to pour loads of chemicals down the pipes designed to kill the roots. Wow! That would be good for your tree huh! Homeowners will even cut roots they think are going towards the pipe in question. Well, for the sake of destroying your tree these are only temporary fixes. The only real fix for this problem is to have your pipes repaired or replaced and adding a product designed to stop root growth around these pipes as previously stated.

Remember even if you have no trees in your yard that does not mean you are safe from this kind of damage. Trees from a neighbouring yard or footpath can cause you problems.
Ouch! Does that not mean all our council trees along our footpaths could potentially damage our properties? Well my iPad does not have enough battery life to go into that! The simple answer is yes, but what are our choices – live in a desert!

Ok, there are a few products out there that can reduce the roots in trenches. So next time you dig a trench for a service then add a product designed to reduce the highway of roots in your trenches.
Also, if you are concerned about roots impacting on your property then also look into installing a root barrier.

This will help you – Look up ‘www.Rootbarrier.com.au’,

So in conclusion, being pro-active now is the best and by far the cheapest thing to do.
Remember to:-
Select your new trees carefully. And,
Check surrounding areas that your new tree or existing tree may impact and lay barriers accordingly. (Earlier the better for both your tree and your pocket).

Please note: Reducing the tree does not reduce the roots, it actually makes them grow faster. So slap your face for even thinking it!

Sorry, I tried to keep this brief, there are still a lot of things I have not covered with tree roots especially root pressures on structures. There is a rule of thumb for planting trees safely around your house, trust me, you don’t want to know it! Just enjoy your trees the best you can while you can!

Citrus Beetle, Mock Orange (Murraya sp.)

To all those Mock Orange (Murraya sp.) owners out there, its time to check them!

If you have stems that have just died then please read all of this post.

These Mocks have always been a good choice to have around as they require little maintenance and they are fairly robust to pests and diseases but be aware they still need some maintenance and they should not be forgotten about. We are always in the need to improve our soil health to allow our trees the best chance to fight against pests and diseases. We can easily do this by watering, mulching, composting, and keeping root systems cool and healthy in our hot weather.

Nutritional problems are caused by either a pH imbalance or a
lack of available water for nutrient uptake.

Disease problems, the most common is Phytophthora. If there is wilting of the leaves and you are sure that both water and nutrients are available to the tree then an inspection of the feeder roots is necessary. What to look for are browning sludgy roots, roots in these conditions do not work well. If both the cause and the effects are not rectified then this will lead to tip necrosis and eventual death. Product such as Fongarid® should be used for the roots.

Pest problems, as I have said before, these trees are pretty hardy, but there is a stem borer that does get attracted to them when the tree is suffering from some form of malnutrition. If you notice a stem of your mock has died then there is a good chance you have a stem borer in there. There is a simple fix for this. Immediately cut the stem below any sign of a hole in the stem itself and put your cuttings in a bag and depose of them. (Very keen tree owners will actually find the small entry hole of the stem borer and squirt kero in it, I wouldn’t bother for a few obvious environmental reasons and also the effort involved).
Applications of a product like Confidor®/Pest Oil® sprayed over the tree and also a root drench will definitely reduce the problem, the efficiency of the application determines the results of either reducing or eradicating the borer.

Remember a tree needs to be healthy to stand the chance to resist pests and diseases in your garden.

If you have any further questions, then contact me via Facebook.

Handy Pruner to have, Pruning Stik® Extendable Tree Pruner

Pruning Stik® Extendable Tree Pruner (2.4 metres–3.6 metres)

We use this tree pruner when we need to make selective cuts to thin out canopies or trimming away from gutters etc.
It’s one of the easiest pruners to use on the market today. Very light and provides a precise cut.
This tool can remove or reduces ladder work. Remember Safety first!
I won’t go into too much detail, just do a search and you will easily find them, if you do have trouble or you want to ask me a question on this then just let me know.

Arborist Tips on Snakes

Our not so friendly venomous snakes are about now with the dry, warmer weather about. Our north western suburbs are mostly affected with multiple sightings and catchings of the Eastern Browns. Remember, they are typically defensive when cornered or restrained.

Don’t invite a snake near your home, keep a clean yard that is well maintained. Try not to feed your chooks, cats, and dogs near the house, or if you have to, then clean up the area after feeding them.

Arborist Tips on Snakes

Tree of the month! Elaeocarpus eumundi (eumundi quandong).

The Elaeocarpus eumundi is a mid-sized rainforest tree of eastern Australia.

Genus: Elaeocarpus
Species: eumundi
Common name: Eumundi Quandong, Smooth Leaved Quandong – Tree, Trees
Botanical name: Elaeocarpus eumundi
Origin: Australia, east coast
Height: 10.0m – 12.0m
Spread: 4.0m – 6.0m ( generally 3m – 5m)
Flower: Cream scented racemes, Late Spring , Early Summer
Leaf: Glossy green, alternate, bluntly serrated, obovate, raised venation, bronze red hairy new growth
Seed & Fruit: –
Comments: Low maintenance, beautiful colours.
Self forming tree that is great for narrow areas, hedging, or as a stand alone feature.

Elaeocarpus eumundi (eumundi quandong)

Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers 20th to 29th of September 2013

Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers 20th to 29th of September 2013

If you have time, then this is a must! It’s not just about flowers!
Flowers, Food & Wine Festival, Floral Parade. Hundreds of parks & blossoming gardens to explore.
The variety of plants, trees and the garden arrangements, are always cleverly put together and fantastic to experience. You never know, you might even come away with a few ideas for your place.

Rust on Frangipani Trees

Anyone with Frangipani trees?
Have you got signs of frangipani rust (discoloured leaves)? Well guess what? It has come earlier this year, but it is time to apply ‘rust-rid’. This will reduce or remove the rust from your tree for the summer, it will make a happier and more colourful tree for you to enjoy.
If you can’t find ‘rust rid then let me know, I will send you our suppliers details.